Crossword Genius

An ill-tasting drink makes them hiss! (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

meths

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'an ill-tasting drink' is the definition.
I can't tell whether this definition defines the answer.

'them hiss' is the wordplay.
I cannot really understand how this works, but
an anagram of 'them' is 'meth' which is within the answer.
A single letter 's' remains which might be clued in a way I don't understand.
This may be the basis of the clue (or it may be nonsense).

'makes' acts as a link.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for meths that I've seen before include "unsuitable alcohol" , "Spirit" , "Methylated spirits (colloq.)" , "Violet-coloured alcohol" , "Fuel" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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