Gross pay one has blown in cafe (6,5)

I believe the answer is:

greasy spoon

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'cafe' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

'gross pay one has blown' is the wordplay.
'gross pay one' can be anagrammed to 'GREASY SPOON'.
However, I am not clear how this is indicated.

'in' acts as a link.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for greasy spoon that I've seen before include "Cheap and shabby cafe" , "Workers' cafe" , "diner, by the way" , "Naff caff" , "cheap place to eat" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.

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