Closest to eastern dish (7)

I believe the answer is:

nearest

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'closest to' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

'eastern dish' is the wordplay.
'eastern' anagrams to 'NEAREST'.
But, I'm not sure how this is indicated.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for nearest that I've seen before include "Sneer at (anag)" , "Closest, being earnest" , "Most intimate" , "Most local" , "Closest among relatives" .)

I've seen this clue in the Irish Times (Crosaire) and the Irish Times.

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