Crossword Genius

Corny, maybe, but unsuited to vegetarians (3)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

ham

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If this is the answer I cannot explain how the clue works.

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(Other definitions for ham that I've seen before include "under twenty-eight [HIP]" , "An actor who overdoes it in meaty way" , "Noah's second son - a bad actor?" , "Upper leg meat" , "Meat for actor who overdoes it" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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