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I go off pastry sent around by a restaurant (9)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

trattoria

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'restaurant' is the definition.
(type of Italian restaurant)

'i go off pastry sent around by a' is the wordplay.
I cannot quite see how this works, but
'i' could be 'a' and 'a' is present in the answer.
'around' could be 'o' (I've seen this in other clues) and 'o' is present in the answer.
'a' is present in the answer.
This may be the basis of clue (or it may be nonsense).

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for trattoria that I've seen before include "Place to eat" , "Italian eating establishment" , "Italian restaurant" , "where Italians eat" .)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.
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