Crossword Genius

Lamb starter taken from celebrity chef (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

elia

'lamb' is the definition.
(pseudonym of essayist Charles Lamb)

'starter taken from celebrity chef' is the wordplay.
'starter taken from' means to remove the first letter.
'celebrity chef' becomes 'Delia' (TV chef Delia Smith).
'delia' with its initial letter taken away is 'ELIA'.

(Other definitions for elia that I've seen before include "Pen-name of essayist Charles Lamb" , "Charles Lamb's pen name" , "Pseudonym adopted by Charles Lamb" , "Essays of - (Charles Lamb)" , "1A [SHEEPISH] part of 26 [LAMB-DA]" .)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.
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