Land reportedly more rocky beneath earth (7)

I believe the answer is:

estonia

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'land' is the definition.
(Estonia is a country)

I don't understand how the remainder of the clue works.

(Other definitions for estonia that I've seen before include "So eat in about here in Northern Europe" , "So eat in poorly on the Baltic Sea" , "Northern European country" , "On a site (anag)" , "European country, capital Tallinn" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.

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