Crossword Genius

As loaves go, this is a gem! (8)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

baguette

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'gem' is the definition.
(I've seen this in another clue)

I don't understand the rest of the clue.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for baguette that I've seen before include "Bread roll" , "Long French breadstick" , "Long loaf - tube gate (anag)" , "Narrow French stick loaf" , "A long thin French loaf" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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