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Bird winning the hearts of rakish showbiz elite (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

kiwi

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'bird' is the definition.
(kiwi is a kind of bird)

I cannot understand how the remainder of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for kiwi that I've seen before include "New Zealander (informal)" , "Rutherford was one" , "apteryx" , "Symbol of New Zealand" , "Chinese gooseberry" .)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.
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