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Eats a rissole, but not fish, in hot sauce (7)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

harissa

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'hot sauce' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I cannot understand how the rest of the clue works.

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(Other definitions for harissa that I've seen before include "Hot paste used in North African cuisine -- ass hair (anag)" , "Hot North African sauce" , "Spicy sauce" .)

I've seen this clue in the Sydney Morning Herald.
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