Crossword Genius

Elder served up frozen dessert and mostly grim cheese (3,9)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

red leicester

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'mostly grim cheese' is the definition.
I don't know anything about this answer so I cannot tell whether it can be defined by this definition.

'elder served up frozen dessert' is the wordplay.
'served up' says the letters should be written in reverse (in a down clue, going upwards).
'frozen' becomes 'ice' (I've seen this in other clues).
'dessert' becomes 'ster' (I am not sure about this - if you are sure you should believe this answer much more).
'elder' reversed gives 'redle'.
'redle'+'ice'+'ster'='RED LEICESTER'

'and' acts as a link.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for red leicester that I've seen before include "food" , "'Cheese!'" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.
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