Gourmand unkind about dip (4)

I believe the answer is:

dunk

'dip' is the definition.
(synonyms)

'gourmand unkind about' is the wordplay.
'about' indicates the answer is hidden within the clue (the clue goes around or about the answer).
'DUNK' can be found hidden inside 'gourmand unkind'.

(Other definitions for dunk that I've seen before include "Put into a liquid" , "Immerse (a biscuit)" , "Dip (morsel) in liquid" , "Submerge in liquid" , "Dip into tea, say" .)

I've seen this clue in The Daily Express.

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