Crossword Genius

Handles fruit (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

pawpaw

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'fruit' is the definition.
(I know that pawpaw is a type of edible fruit)

I can't explain the rest of the clue.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for pawpaw that I've seen before include "Custard apple tree" , "foul once" , "Fruit" , "Papaya" .)

I've seen this clue in The Telegraph.
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