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It's smooth, creamy, not exactly bitter (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

butter

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'bitter' is the definition.
The definition and answer can be both things that one consumes for nourishment as well as being singular nouns.
Maybe there's a link between them I don't understand?

I cannot understand how the rest of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for butter that I've seen before include "Bread-spread made from milk" , "& 22 Mincepie accompaniment" , "Spread for bread" , "Spread derived from cream" , "Dairy spread" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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