Seen in a role or a roll (3)

I believe the answer is:

ham

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'roll' is the definition.
The definition and answer can be both things that one consumes for nourishment as well as being singular nouns.
Maybe they are linked in a way I don't understand?

I cannot understand how the rest of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for ham that I've seen before include "Meat served in sandwiches" , "One of Noah's sons" , "This actor overacts" , "Bad actor; Noah son" , "Noah's second son - a bad actor?" .)

I've seen this clue in The Globe and Mail.

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