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Stout heart of the Celtic nation (3)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

ale

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This could be a double definition.

'stout' is the first definition.
(I've seen this before)

'heart of the celtic nation' is the second definition.
The definition and answer can be both things that one consumes for nourishment as well as being singular nouns.
Maybe there's a link between them I don't understand?

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for ale that I've seen before include "Beer consumed in chalets" , "English beer, may be bitter" , "Type of beer" , "Alcoholic beverage" , "Light-coloured beer" .)

I've seen this clue in the Sydney Morning Herald.
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