Crossword Genius

An irritable “That’s how old port should look” (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

crusty

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'an irritable' is the definition.
(thesaurus)

'how old port should look' is the wordplay.
I cannot really see how this works, but
'old' could be 'rusty' (similar in meaning) and 'rusty' is found in the answer.
A single letter 'c' remains which might be clued in a way I don't understand.
This may be the basis of the clue (or it may be nonsense).

'that's' acts as a link.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for crusty that I've seen before include "Cross or harsh, like outer layer of loaf" , "Short" , "Ill-humoured" , "Sour and brusque, like outer part of bread" , "Curtsy (anag.)" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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