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Best frozen treat, no longer cold in the middle (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

choice

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'best frozen treat' is the definition.
'choice' can be an answer for 'best' (both can mean the most excellent). I am not sure about the 'frozen treat' bit.

'no longer cold in the middle' is the wordplay.
'no longer' becomes 'choi' (I can't justify this - if you can you should believe this answer much more).
'cold' becomes 'iced' (similar in meaning).
'in the middle' says to take the centre.
The middle of 'iced' is 'ce'.
'choi'+'ce'='CHOICE'

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for choice that I've seen before include "Very good" , "Possibility" , "Act or power of selecting" , "Top quality" , "'Option, alternative (6)'" .)

I've seen this clue in The Independent.
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