Crossword Genius

Many a complaint has a culinary connection (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

chives

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'a culinary connection' is the definition.
Although both the answer and definition are singular nouns, I don't understand how they can define each other.

'many a complaint' is the wordplay.
'many a' becomes 'c' (I can't justify this - if you can you should believe this answer much more).
'complaint' becomes 'hives' (I've seen this before).
'c'+'hives'='CHIVES'

'has' is the link.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for chives that I've seen before include "Herb of the onion family" , "Plants" , "Plant of onion family" , "Herbs with long tubular onionflavoured leaves" , "Leaves used as onion-flavoured seasoning" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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