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Taste of sugar, say: one floats up when cooked (11)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

teaspoonful

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'taste of sugar' is the definition.
Although both the answer and definition are singular nouns, I don't understand how they can define each other.

'one floats up when cooked' is the wordplay.
'when cooked' indicates anagramming the letters.
'one'+'floats'+'up'='onefloatsup'
'onefloatsup' is an anagram of 'TEASPOONFUL'.

'say' is the link.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for teaspoonful that I've seen before include "Small volume" , "Small amount" , "modicum of liquid" .)

I've seen this clue in The Telegraph.
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