The foreigner at the vegetarian restaurant? (5)

I believe the answer is:

swede

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'the foreigner' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I cannot understand how the rest of the clue works.

(Other definitions for swede that I've seen before include "Person like Strindberg" , "Scandinavian - vegetable" , "Scandinavian national" , "Northern European" , "Sort of turnip - one from Scandinavia?" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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